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Id like to pick up a Block Plane in the $30-$60 range. Any suggestions?

Your first? If it is, I would recommend a used #60 1/2, you can probably get one from a used tool dealer for around $30. Low angle, adjustable mouth; everyone should own this plane.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

[QUOTE=Arnt] Your first? If it is, I would recommend a used #60 1/2, you can probably get one from a used tool dealer for around $30. Low angle, adjustable mouth; everyone should own this plane.[/QUOTE]

yes its my first. I have a woodcraft and a woodworkers supply near me and was hopping to pick up one there. I never bought a used tool and don't know that i have used tool store near me. alambert39055.6604513889

I was thinking online used tool dealers. Patric Leach of "blood and gore" fame has a very good reputation; send him an e-mail, he probably has one in stock for you.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

For used, there's always eBay. I've seen quite a few Stanley block planes there.

Both the Stanley 9-1/2 and 60-1/2 can be had from Woodcraft within your budget.

New or used, first thing you want do do is "true" the sole, then (of course) sharpen and hone the blade.

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live

[QUOTE=Michael McBroom] For used, there's always eBay. I've seen quite a few Stanley block planes there.

Both the Stanley 9-1/2 and 60-1/2 can be had from Woodcraft within your budget.

New or used, first thing you want do do is "true" the sole, then (of course) sharpen and hone the blade.

Best,

Michael
[/QUOTE]

I was realy hoping the would come ready togo!

For just a bit more you could get a Lie Nielsen 102. It is a good buy with free shipping.Don A39055.6682407407

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

[QUOTE=alambert] [QUOTE=Michael McBroom] For used, there's always eBay. I've seen quite a few Stanley block planes there.

Both the Stanley 9-1/2 and 60-1/2 can be had from Woodcraft within your budget.

New or used, first thing you want do do is "true" the sole, then (of course) sharpen and hone the blade.

Best,

Michael
[/QUOTE]

I was realy hoping the would come ready togo! [/QUOTE]

The only planes I know that come out of the box needing no tune-up, sharpening or plate truing are Lie-Nelsons

[QUOTE=alambert] [QUOTE=Michael McBroom] For used, there's always eBay. I've seen quite a few Stanley block planes there.

Both the Stanley 9-1/2 and 60-1/2 can be had from Woodcraft within your budget.

New or used, first thing you want do do is "true" the sole, then (of course) sharpen and hone the blade.

Best,

Michael
[/QUOTE]

I was realy hoping the would come ready togo! [/QUOTE]
none really come ready to go as such......except for something like the lie-nielsen which is a beauty and well worth the investment....i love it and glad i bought it

otherwise you just need a flat piece of glass and stick some wet and dry paper to get the sole flat.....
for the blades i use a combination of different grit stones and the veritas mkII honing guide which is a foolproof system
even if one did come " ready to go" you will still need to perform these tasks at some point anyway

although as far as bench planes go the old stanley bench planes i just resurrected did take some time and a lot of elbow grease to get right but for the small amount of money to buy an old one as opposed to a new LV or LN bench plane was worth it......and i got a far better understanding about how planes work by doing it...

i borrowed a book by lie-nielsen on sharpening from the local library which got my blades shaving hair off my arms .....its been very rewarding to get these planes working the way they were supposed to.
gratay39055.6888541667

[QUOTE=Don A] For just a bit more you could get a Lie Nielsen 102. It is a good buy with free shipping.[/QUOTE]

Is this one of the ones that come ready to go? I'm a little shy to sharpen on my on.

[QUOTE=alambert] [QUOTE=Don A] For just a bit more you could get a Lie Nielsen 102. It is a good buy with free shipping.[/QUOTE]

Is this one of the ones that come ready to go? I'm a little shy to sharpen on my on.[/QUOTE]

Yep all Lie Nielsen come ready to go, but you best get acquainted with sharpening as it will be needed down the road.MichaelP39055.6947800926

I'm sure it's one you could use it right out of the box, but you will have to learn how to sharpen the blade at some point in the near future. It well just get to expensive buying a new plane, chisel etc when your "old" one gets dull. (I'm ribbin ya here Al).

Sharpening chisels and plane blades is really not that hard. Check out this post from about a month ago on sharpening. There are lots of options and at the bottom I posted a link to a very easy way of sharpening.

Trouble sharpening plan irons

I've been doing the scary sharp method for a while now, it's very easy to perform and wow, you get a nice sharp blade when your done. Don't be afraid. Fear will always hold you back from trying new things. Heck, your building a guitar, there are only a small percentage of the population who can do that.Rod True39055.6973148148

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A little outside the price range, and smaller than a standard block plane, but this has always been my favorite:

Veritas apron plane

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

[QUOTE=Rod True] I'm sure it's one you could use it right out of the box, but you will have to learn how to sharpen the blade at some point in the near future. It well just get to expensive buying a new plane, chisel etc when your "old" one gets dull. (I'm ribbin ya here Al).

Sharpening chisels and plane blades is really not that hard. Check out this post from about a month ago on sharpening. There are lots of options and at the bottom I posted a link to a very easy way of sharpening.

Trouble sharpening plan irons

I've been doing the scary sharp method for a while now, it's very easy to perform and wow, you get a nice sharp blade when your done. Don't be afraid. Fear will always hold you back from trying new things. Heck, your building a guitar, there are only a small percentage of the population who can do that.[/QUOTE]

These are good point’s thanks for the encouragement!

I agree with the advice above.   If you get a common Stanley #60 1/2 or equivalent in good condition and learn how to tune it, it is also a nice introduction to how these things work, and you get used to the maintenance and keeping it in top shape at all times. It is not hard and does not take long, provided you get a nice specimen. You can be pretty sure of that with someone like Leach, on Ebay you take your chances.   A new one will also have to be tuned, so why pay more for that?

This is a well proven, sound design, and is in my opinion more versatile than the simplest (non adjustable mouth) LN or Veritas even if these are better made. But, block planes are cheap and you will probably get more than one in a while. Not much sense in arguing which is the "best" one.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

google "Brass City Records"- yep, you read it right. Walt Q. Reliable as a chunk of granite. Link to his tool portion. He will sell you a gem, will come well adjusted and honed. Get a model with an ADJUSTABLE MOUTH- yes, I';m shouting. This fellow will fix you right up. If you buy and aren't happy, I will buy from you including whatever shipping expense you incur-I'm serious. My go to LA Block is the Veritas-Adj. mouth- only downside on the apron if I recall correctly. I'll make the same offer if you buy the LV LA and don't like it.No bull. By the way, I own 11 LN planes and I'll make the same deal on their 60 1/2,too. Ebay is a crap shoot if you are not well versed, especially when it comes to the mouths. Regards, MTMiketobey39055.8134027778

as usual i am going against the grain of the thread but i just feel a normal angle plane is more useful in the work we do. yes, the low angle is good on end grain, but the higher angle planes are better in most situations.

if you feel you must have a new one, in your price range look for the english stanley or record. i think lee valley and garrett wade still sell them. they have superior castings and fittings and are finished better than the current american stanleys.

however, i firmly believe in the used market. my total expenditure on my current lot of approx. 13 planes is probably less than $200. all of my planes came to me preloved, and as a new one has to be tuned anyway the work is basically the same. occasionally you find a used one where the work has already been done. garage sales, flea markets, auctions, ebay, etc., are all good sources. for the $60 mentioned above for a new stanley with an aftermarket blade you could have perhaps four or five planes.

as to the after market blades, i'm sure that they are better, true. but i've never felt the need for one. crazymanmichael39056.3278356481

The 60 1/2 is the way to go in a metal block plane, in my opinion.
Don't worry about flattening the sole- in a block plane this is not really much of an issue. You will have to learn to sharpen, so set aside some time and $$ for that.

The 60 1/2 has a pretty delicate 'mouth' area and you will often see used examples with cracked soles, so it may be best to stick with a reputable used tool dealer rather than eBay. That said, I buy hand tools on eBay and have been happy with what I've gotten.

Another possibility which has a far better blade is an ECE Primus wood-bodied block plane, but it's a bit more 'chunky' than the 60 1/2.
Getting your plane really sharp is lots of fun-you will enjoy those shavings you can read through!
John

I’m a real newbie here so I’m not sure if I would know sharp from dull, or true from out. So I think its best I start with something that’s both sharp and true. It sounds like I need to either go with the Lie Nielsen 102 or buy a used tool from someone who will ship it to me ready to go.

Sounds like most of you say the Low Angle is the way to go if your only going to have one.

I think I will go with this one. Unless one of you would like to sell me one! ;)

This one

they are very nice small block planes. you mention that it is to be your first plane, and that you know little about sharpening and tuning. you may well have to sharpen your plane after only an hour or so of use, depending upon what kind of stock you are using it on. it might be a good idea to get a cheap plane blade to use to learn sharpening skills on. replacement ln blades are not cheap.

you have not mentioned what you plan to use the plane for. before buying a tool, i try to identify what tasks i want to perform with the tool, and determine if can i use a tool i already have to perform the task, and so on.

a small block plane such as this has many uses, but there are just as many tasks, if not more, that it can not handle.
crazymanmichael39056.4122916667

[QUOTE=alambert]
I’m a real newbie here so I’m not sure if I would know sharp from dull, or true from out. So I think its best I start with something that’s both sharp and true. It sounds like I need to either go with the Lie Nielsen 102 or buy a used tool from someone who will ship it to me ready to go.[/QUOTE]

I took the same tack when I was first learning about planes and sharpening. I think it's worthwhile to know what a good well-tuned plane is supposed to feel like. I started off with a Lie Nielsen adjustable mouth block plane and a LN #4-1/2 smoother. I've never regretted spending the $$s on these quality tools. And now that I'm more experienced, I've been picking up old Stanley bench planes on eBay to tune up and use in the shop.

If you have to pick and choose, though... The block plane pretty much just needs a sharp blade to work well, the flatness of the sole is not as important as it is on bigger bench planes. There's no way to get around learning to sharpen, so if $$s are an issue, I'd pick one up cheap on eBay and then invest in a good sharpening set up. Save up for a good LN bench plane if you want to see how a good bench plane feels to work with.

I finally dedicated a small 24x24 bench (actually a cheapo "work station" from Harbor Freight) to sharpening. It's not complicated, it includes a granite slab from Woodcraft and the Veritas MkII honing guide. I love the Veritas honing guide, for me it makes sharpening less of a chore since you don't have to fuss to get the angle set when honing. It's not cheap, but you can use it for all your chisels and planes from here on out.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

[QUOTE=crazymanmichael] they are very nice small block planes. you mention that it is to be your first plane, and that you know little about sharpening and tuning. you may well have to sharpen your plane after only an hour or so of use, depending upon what kind of stock you are using it on. it might be a good idea to get a cheap plane blade to use to learn sharpening skills on. replacement ln blades are not cheap.

you have not mentioned what you plan to use the plane for. before buying a tool, i try to identify what tasks i want to perform with the tool, and determine if can i use a tool i already have to perform the task, and so on.

a small block plane such as this has many uses, but there are just as many tasks, if not more, that it can not handle.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks crazy.

Basicly Im following the "Guitarmaking" book. He says I need a smoothing plane and a block plane to complete the project.

The first place I will use it is to clean up the cut to join the headstock to the neck. Im sure there will be other places also.

I already have a spokeshave and I plan on picking up a smoothing plane at some point.

[QUOTE=letseatpaste] [QUOTE=alambert]
I’m a real newbie here so I’m not sure if I would know sharp from dull, or true from out. So I think its best I start with something that’s both sharp and true. It sounds like I need to either go with the Lie Nielsen 102 or buy a used tool from someone who will ship it to me ready to go.[/QUOTE]

I took the same tack when I was first learning about planes and sharpening. I think it's worthwhile to know what a good well-tuned plane is supposed to feel like. I started off with a Lie Nielsen adjustable mouth block plane and a LN #4-1/2 smoother. I've never regretted spending the $$s on these quality tools. And now that I'm more experienced, I've been picking up old Stanley bench planes on eBay to tune up and use in the shop.

If you have to pick and choose, though... The block plane pretty much just needs a sharp blade to work well, the flatness of the sole is not as important as it is on bigger bench planes. There's no way to get around learning to sharpen, so if $$s are an issue, I'd pick one up cheap on eBay and then invest in a good sharpening set up. Save up for a good LN bench plane if you want to see how a good bench plane feels to work with.

I finally dedicated a small 24x24 bench (actually a cheapo "work station" from Harbor Freight) to sharpening. It's not complicated, it includes a granite slab from Woodcraft and the Veritas MkII honing guide. I love the Veritas honing guide, for me it makes sharpening less of a chore since you don't have to fuss to get the angle set when honing. It's not cheap, but you can use it for all your chisels and planes from here on out.[/QUOTE]

Jon,

Thanks for the advice. I'm planing on going over to woodcraft today at lunch. I will take alook at the products you suggested.

todd's essay on the differences in manufacturing standards is very illustrative of why ln, lv, and other premium planes are worth what you pay for them. pity he didn't also show the difference in sole flatness and polish the premium planes have over the more workaday offerings.

however, i disagree with the earlier assertion in someone else's post that a block plane does not need a flat sole to work well, and further believe that since the sole is so short, unevenness in the sole will have an even greater effect on the accuracy of it's performance. also, a rough, unpolished, unflat sole on any plane is a real drag, literally and figuratively, particularly when you have to control it with only one hand..

do you have a tablesaw? if so i would encourage you to have a look at the recent thread wherein the tablesaws use with the licis jig in making the scarf joint was discussed by john and me among others. a much easier method to achieve satisfactory result than using the hand saw and plane.crazymanmichael39056.4842708333

[QUOTE=crazymanmichael] i disagree with the assertion that a block plane does not need a flat sole to work well, and further believe that since the sole is so short, unevenness in the sole will have an even greater effect on the accuracy of it's performance. also, a rough, unpolished sole on any plane is a real drag, literally and figuratively, particularly when you have to control it with only one hand.[/QUOTE]

I'll defer to you on that... I just had in mind the types of job for which I use a block plane, usually not trying to go for a perfectly flat/straight surface. You're right, though, all that affects ease of use for sure.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR